Kagbeni – Ancient Himalayan Settlement and Gateway to Upper Mustang
First is getting there. The planes that take you to the nearest airstrip in the town of Jomsom are small 10-seater prop planes that feel very, very tiny compared to the VERY, VERY large mountains you're flying through. Thankfully, they are operated by a highly skilled pilot! The journey is extremely windy, a white-knuckle ride that is not for the faint-hearted. Our plane couldn't fly straight for most of the flight; it was pushed up the valley in a diagonal position. Sort of like a Labrador whose hind legs are faster than their front, and they run with their body a quarter turn from true. Now, imagine that dog as a plane with you inside, smelling of petrol, with the ground far below, the wind screaming in your ears, and mountains all around ... I have a vision burned in my mind of our pilot, a tall Nepalese man in a crisp white shirt, a smart blue jacket, and aviator shades, arms ram-rod straight, hands clamped, eyes forward, rock solid ... his stoicism gave me confidence in our survival.
We made it, though everyone agreed it was one of the more touchy jumps they had made.
Once back on lovely mother earth, we were driven a bumpy 10km to our final destination, the medieval village of Kagbeni. If you have a bit more time and the weather is pleasant, you can make the same trek on foot or by horse.
Kagbeni lies on the banks at the confluence of the Kali Gandaki and Jhong Rivers. At 2,800m (9,186 ft.) of altitude, you find yourself sitting on the Annapurna Circuit and the gateway to Upper Mustang. This part of the world can make you feel very small indeed. You feel very alone among these giants of the world.
The town played a very significant role during the "Salt Trade" era, which flourished between Tibet and Nepal. Today, it is a collection of mud-brick houses, temples, and rural life. You are close to the edge of the world here, and you can feel it in the high, thin air and desolate river beds.
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Kag Chode Thupten Samphel Ling monastery [/caption]
We stayed at the Red House Lodge. It was December, and it was freezing; (not really a smart time to go). With no heater in the rooms, the only warm spot was the glass-enclosed dining area on the rooftop during the day, which was warmed by the only available heater and the smashing sunlight. Fortunately, the ever-present chai tea is available anytime and is served in a thermos.
The Red Lodge houses a Chapel with beautiful wall paintings, an idol of Maitreya, and a very impressive Mandala. It is as lovely a place as is to be found. You are well beyond mod-cons up here. This fact sinks in when you realise that everything you see was hand-carried over the same trek that would have been arduous by plane and car.
Your stay in Kagbeni will be a personal experience for you. It is incredibly photogenic, so let's let the pictures do the rest of the talking.
Kag Chode Thupten Samphel Ling translates as "Monastery of the place to stop and develop concentration on the teachings of lord Buddha". Founded in 1429 by scholar Tenpai Gyaltsen of the Shakya Pa sect, the monastery's altar displays bronze icons of Sakyamuni Buddha, flanked by his disciples Sariputra and Maudgalayana, as well as other divinities. It is wonderful to see the Thankas, holy canon, frescoes, and woodwork in this remotest of locations. There is an entrance fee to enter the monastery.
Village of Kagbeni, Mustang, Nepal
Lat/Lng: 28.8696315 , 83.570964