Takefue Ryokan, a Hot Spring Hotel Nestled in a Bamboo Forest
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Chikurin no Yu (bamboo grove hot spring) [/caption]
There are no words to capture the beauty and magic of this place. In a country that consistently exceeds all expectations, Takefue Ryokan stands out as one of the very best Ryokan in Japan.
The ryokan is located on a remote mountain in Kyūshū, just outside the enchanting town of Kurokawa Onsen, tucked away deep within a bamboo forest. The name Takefue (竹ふえ) combines “take” (bamboo) with “fue” (flute), evoking the sound of a bamboo flute or the whisper of bamboo
You arrive after winding your way through a dense bamboo forest, where each stem stands tall and proud, its leaves whispering in the breeze. Light filters through the canopy – green, gold, always shifting – as you follow the paths towards the ryokan. The bamboo isn’t just a scenic backdrop; it’s the host and guide, circling wooden decks, arching
Within this forest, different species lend their own character. The towering Mousouchiku stand tall and pale, reaching impressive heights of 20 metres in just a few weeks. Along the paths, the glossy stems of Madake catch the sunlight, their polished surfaces shining brightly against the softer, leafy backdrop. Nearby, the muted greens of Hachiku create a calming, earthy feel, while Hoteichiku, rugged and textured, stand resilient near the entrances, even thriving in dry air. As you walk through, you notice the atmosphere subtly changing- from the shimmering Madake to the gentle Hachiku, and then to the majestic Mousouchiku. It's less of a simple walk and more like exploring a vibrant, living gallery of nature bamboo.
Even in Japan, where hospitality is an art form, Takefue goes further. On arrival, you’re introduced to a staff member who becomes your personal host for the duration of your stay. They gently guide you through everything, from choosing a yukata and coat to creating and scheduling menus, and assist with your bath reservation. It’s all done gently, almost invisibly, creating a sense that the entire hotel is exclusively for your use. Although we knew the hotel was fully booked, we didn't see anyone other than our hostess.
Each room has its own private onsen, allowing you to enjoy a relaxing hot spring bath just for yourself. There are also some larger baths available for reservation. Each of the stunning shared baths includes a cosy changing area with a variety of hot and cold drinks, like sake and beer, plus an oven offering warm towels to enjoy after your soak. As you stroll around the beautiful grounds, keep an eye out for delightful surprises — complimentary snacks such as sodas, water, and tea are scattered along the paths. There’s even a freezer with delicious ice-cream pops for an extra treat!
Meals here are events in themselves. Breakfast is generous, and dinner is a full Kaiseki experience — a sequence of seasonal dishes that feel like art performances. Each plate is a balance of colours, textures, and flavours; even the choice of dishware reflects the mood of the forest outside. Steam rises like stage smoke, garnishes echo the seasons, and flavours are precise yet soulful.
Tip
If possible, plan to stay at least two nights. Make it your final onsen stop in Kyūshū, so you leave on a high note. And if you’re still wondering whether to travel this far south, the answer is simple: go. Kyūshū is pure Japan, and Takefue is its shining jewel..
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Sayo guest room [/caption]
竹ふえ Takefue Ryokan
(81) 57.006.4559
5725 Manganji, Minamioguni, Aso District; Kumamoto Prefecture 869-2402, Japan
www.takefue.com
most photos on tis post ©Takefue